On the Road: Gruene, Texas

On the Road: Gruene, Texas
Date: Sun, 2 Jul 1995 11:01:06 -0400
From: FGS777@aol.com
To: benmccon@pic.net
Subject: Bubba notes

GRUENE, TEXAS — Maybe it’s just one of those periodic things, a series of random events which conspire to make everything look like the guys with the conspiracy theories are right. Friday, it was a late lunch with a client, forcing everything off schedule and out of the nice, normal design. Saturday night, last night, in Gruene, it was the dinner.

The dinner wasn’t the problem, although, a meal — no matter how good — that takes close to an hour to be delivered leaves something to be desired. Depite the staff’s best efforts to entertain, the long July Fourth weekend just isn’t the time to be in Gruene, at Texas’ Oldest Dance Hall.

Unless, of course, Ray Wylie Hubbard is playing.

The winding and circuitous route was punctuated with questions about my virility and basic male-ness because I stopped and asked for directions. The funny thing was, the directions were wrong, so off we go on a long and leisurely drive, Texas at Sundown, meandering along a river choked with holiday folks while my companion is getting nervous about getting there.

“It’s not like I haven’t eaten all day or anything,” she said.

Finally, after two more sets of directions from amused local people, we rolled into Gruene. Stand in line.

“But I know the band,” she said.

Moments later, one band member’s significant other (what do you call the bass player’s girlfriend?) shows up and tells the gate girl to let us in, that we’re, “on the guest list.”

Get in, say “hello” to the drummer, introductions, and “have you had dinner yet” noises. So off we go, just the two of us, me and the trusty sidekick, one more time, to get some dinner.

Who would guess that Gruene would be vying for a world class restaurant these days? But what with the lovely and lazy view over the Guadalupe River, the hills of Comal County, the verdant tree tops, the idea of fine al fresco dining is almost too good to pass up.

Should’ve stuck to the burgers, out here in Texas.

To be sure, the Swordfish in the fine white sauce was delicious, and the shrimp something-or-other was good, too, but the poor servers were busy running up and down these stairs, and the kitchen took just a little too long to get the food out. Ambience only goes so far on an empty stomach.

But like the time before, the delay was fortuitous. We got back to Gruene Hall, just as the band was geting to the stage, arranging their instruments and starting to test their equipment over the house noise.

There are not many things in this world which are so quintessentially Texan as Ray Wylie Hubbard at Gruene Hall. Here’s man who writes soulful lyrics, sets them to a deceptively simple country beat, and yet seems more like a Zen Master than anything else. If anyone in this world is going to channel Elvis, it’s Ray Wylie Hubbard. And when the time demands it, like a July Fouth weekend, Ray can rock the house with a few good licks. So here’s this country music trapped inside a Zen mind. And rocking the house with the best of the honky-tonk style he can set to that 4/4 beat.

Bubba, it just don’t get no better than this.

The crowd is everything from close-cropped Texas Aggies to the occasional long-haired grunge type. Halfway through the second set, Ray announces that they are going to play some “Garage Band Country and Western.” Somehow this just fits.

The crowd: the guys with no hair to the guys with the long hair, and the women, from real women who look like Snuff Queens in the finest tradtion of Saturday night honky-tonk cruising, to the occasioinal hippie chick in long, flowing dresses with long flowing tresses and everything in between. Big hair, big hats, real rednecks rubbing belt buckles with pretty young preppies.

Bubba, this is Texas, and there is nothing like a little Texas two-step, except watching some cowboy dressed in shorts, sandals and a huge cowboy hat, twirling a pretty young philly around.

Bubba, I ain’t lying to you, try and find Loco Gringo’s Lament by Ray Wylie Hubbard in a local store. You’ll like it. Listen to the damn lyrics. Listen to the voice. Sure, I know it’s country, but you’ll like it. It’s Texas music, about a half beat different and a half a beat better than anything else.

Geology 303

To: benbubba@aol.com
From: KramerW@aol.com
Subject: Bubba notes

AUSTIN, TEXAS — “Geology 303?”

Yes. Geology 303. Or 306, or maybe it was Chemistry, and I’m not talking about the kind of chemistry between two people, although, that’s what this line leads to.

Yes. It’s a line. I’ve seen my neighbor employ it three times in the last week. His girlfriend is out of town, doing an internship someplace else. So while me and him are out and about, for example, today at Amy’s, he uses this line.

Bubba, enroll in school again, just for this reason. And take something like Geology 303. The funny thing is, the women just lap it up. I’ve seen, three times now. In just the last week. There was a waitress at Magnolia, a woman behind the counter at Amy’s, and the girl behind the coffee counter at the bookstore. I mean, this line really, really works.

“You look familiar,” he says.

(I know the script by heart now.)

“Yeah, you look familiar, too,” she says.

“Geology 303. The lab?” he asks.

“I think so. What are you doing here….”

“Buying [books, coffee, breakfast, etc.]”

Look, Bubba, it is nothing more than an introduction, just a line to get a conversation going. But I’ve seen this gun-shy kid use it, again and again. I wouldn’t have thought it was any big deal, but we had been out moving some furniture around, remind me to tell you the joys of owning a pickup truck at the end of the month, and we were all hot and sweaty, and of course, the kid didn’t have a shirt on, and with an obviously pierced nipple, he looks pretty good. I guess. I mean, I don’t think anyone should pierce anything more than their ears, but then, by these standards, I’m old fashioned. And that’s a different tale to tell. Here we were, standing in Amy’s Ice Cream, and there’s this girl leaned over the cooler, digging out some scoops of Mexican Vanilla. She turns around, and it is love at first sight. Or something like that. I mean, one of those lovely little girls who works behind the counter at an Ice Cream store, as you can well imagine, a pert and healthy look without being too sun dried. Yes, it’s definitely the healthy look. She takes one look at the three of us, we did employ another neighbor to aid in the moving of the furniture, and she does a double take on the pierce nipple.

Insert the line. Now, transpose this event into any one of a number of places, fairly typical in a college town. In fact, just about anyplace wherein you want to generate a random conversation with an appealing member of the opposite sex. I’ve seen it work. If a shy, introvert Virgo can get away with time and again, well, Bubba, you know it’s just got to work for you and I.

Geology 303. Tell them I sent you.

Fishing in England

Date: Mon, 30 Jan 1995 00:36:10 -0500
From: KramerW@aol.com
To: benmccon@pic.net
Subject: Fishing in England

Remember: it’s deadline time for bulk mail Valentines.

Notes from the road? It could work. Like “What I learned on my English Vacation, or Bubba does England.”

ENGLAND–The British have never learned to make a decent cup of coffee, even their cappuccino is either too weak, or it just tastes like water with a little bit of mud thrown in it. Just to add body, you see. Just like the water from their great river Thames, which should by all rights, be pronounced in a much different fashion. Let’s face it: the Brits can’t do coffee or English right. But I did learn a thang or two bout them. I like Wales. It’s cold, dreary, and grey all the time. Sun never comes out. Sky sort of drizzles, not like a good, Texas-Turd-Floating rain, more like that mist which comes out of the sprinklers at the outdoor fern bars.

Somewhere, Wales got good and sideways with the cosmic master-the odd gods made this really pretty country, and the people are friendly enough, but they all speak Gaelic. And the weather, on a good day, mind you, the weather is miserable at its very best. All this enchanting countryside and nothing but terrible weather. It was a dark and stormy night. But perhaps bit of true British surrealism came that one morning in Convent Garden, I mean, there I was with my little Welsh girlfriend, I told I like the people in Wales, and we were sitting in French Bistro, eating British Breakfast Food, and listening to Elvis on the stereo.

Then there’s this appearance thing. I was wandering around King’s Cross Station, looking for the Urania Trust, or desperately seeking astrology in London. Normal enough, one would suppose. Levi’s, biker jacket, long hair, earrings, I mean, the traditional black garb is really rather appropriate seeing as the how the sun comes up around eight or nine in the morning, and it sets long before tea time which occurs at 4 in the afternoon. In other words, it’s black outside the whole time. So my black clothes fit right in. But it happens every time, there I was, rotating my London A to Z, trying to figure out where I was, where the astrology bookstore was, why the buildings had burglar bars on them, and up walk a couple of kids with backpacks. “Do you know where King’s Cross Road is?” I look at them, fix my steady Scorpio-rising eyeball glare on ’em, and I drawl, “Like I have a clue? I’m lost’rn shit.” Then, not two blocks further away, it happens again. Now, I implore you, when you’re lost in a foreign country, don’t ask strange looking Texans for advice. I took care of the last person who asked me by giving them a lengthy set of directions. I don’t know if they found the tube stop they were looking for, but I don’t have much patience with ugly American tourists. Be careful though, especially when I start to channel Elvis.

Maybe England’s got the Queen, but the King is American.

On the Road: San Diego County

On the Road: San Diego County, CA
Date: 20 Sep 1994 to 28 Sep 1994
From: KramerW@aol.com
To: benmccon@pic.net
Subject: Surf notes

Potrero, CA (Peoples’ Republic of Southern California) — So this is the weekend update from out here, and let me tell you, things are definitely strange out here. It’s a different tempo for life. I drove the rent car down the hill Saturday morning to see about a paper and some gas.

The closest gas is in Tecate," said one native.

That’s Tecate, Mexico, home of the brewery. The native was trying to be helpful. He was just passing through and had a much bemused expression when he realized that I was definitely not from around here. Tecate is in another country, along with the concept that the world shifts when one goes into Mexico. Which, in case you haven’t been lately, it does. Shift, that is.

But Potrero and the surrounding terrain are strangely unique for a this area. Less than 60 (sixty) miles away is the raw beat of San Diego, or as some call it, Insane Diego. That’s a major population center, the heart beat of Southern California, the beach, the style, the blood boiling fast and furious-downtown, there’s a few places downtown where airplanes, the big jetliners, land; and the boats coming steaming up; and there’s even active rail service. So here’s the activitiy, not even an hour away by car, and then there’s the calm of Potrero.

Big difference. The wild pack of coyote howl at the moon in Potrero.< It's called the East County or the Back County or some other rural name which implies that the area is rustic and full of less than desirable people, the inbred, tailer house trash associated with places like Frontage Road, Texas; all of Oklahoma; and most of Arkansas. In Arkansas, of course, the exceptions are Hope and Little Rock.

Rustic and rural, this is rough country along the backside of the coastal range. The actual terrain itself is a nasty form of ground cover which includes a variety of sage and wild rosemary to tough manzanita, yucca and a minimum of eleven kinds of unidentified plants with burrs and thorns. The dense undercover makes light of the fact that this is a desert.

"Pretty lush desert, not like what I was used to in Arizona," one host observed.

What isn’t tough vegetation is granite. In fact, the plants exist on a thin layer of sand which nothing more than granite which has crumbled apart from age. This is an old area.

"The house at the bottom of hill, supposedly it was a stop on the old Butterfield Stage Line…."

I would tend to allow that statement a chance to wander little bit more into the mythical area rather than the reality department. The house, now no more than a four walls and a badly decaying wooden roof, looks old enough to be, by my dead reckoning, forty to fifty years old. Old granite pieces stuck together with solid looking conrete and cement, one of those structures which was assembled by hand, and only later it was bricked up in places, like plumbing was an afterthought. And electricity, too, came later. There are really two structures like that, down alongside the highway, State (Peoples’ Republic) Highway 94.

"He’s a got a bmpersticker, did you see it when he was up at the house, ‘Pray for Me: I drive Highway 94’?"
94 is a tight road, winds up from the freeway: in fact, it is part of the Southern California Freeway System at one point.

Not far from Potrero, just twenty miles or so down along 94 towards the port city of San Diego, there’s the first of the encroaching civilization although it’s hard to use that word when one gets rapidly used to the idea of waking at sun up and sleeping after a breath taking sunset. Like all the other towns and areas around here, the names is some hybrid Spanish-Mexican-Anglo-Indian-Native name. It means that the owners of the Urban Assault Vehicles are roaming and roving closer and closer. It won’t be too much longer before Potrero is discovered.

See: this town is perfect, just far enough away from the city to make it an impossible commute, at least, an impossible commute to San Diego. It would be a pretty comfortable commute to Tecate. Matter of fact, that’s the easiest population center to reach in order to get some groceries, or dinner, or a six pack. Just bring your returnable bottles with you when you go.

So: Potrero has the Mexcian Frontier on one side, what some folk refer to as the Taco Curtain, a fourteen foot high iron fence. To the north is some National Forest land, all protected. There’s this ten mile stretch from border to governement land which is so wonderful. The Baja State of Mexico is wonderfully independent although it is showing a glut from foriegn investors as new real estate developments spring up along the coast, just south of Tijuana. There goes a good thing, but then it was bound to happen.

Potrero: it’s stuck halfway from no where to no where. While 94 is a fun sports car kind of a road, and it does attract a number of "crotch rocket" motorcycle riders on the weekend, the road is’nt the easiest way to get into the city. Back track ten or twelve miles to the Interstate, that’s the easiest way to get to town. On a full moon kind of craziness night, the Interstate is probably the safest way to get to and from town. The easy pace of life catches on really quickly: less than twenty four hours and the tempo is the relaxed, when-ever attitude.

"It not the same thing, not now," Mick said.

"Not with the Yuppie Urban-Assault vehicles, not the gear head, you know, the ones with all the toys. Too many pieces of equipment. Just not the same," he said.

The beach may be an idlic place to frolic, but for Mick it is also a spiritual place. He likes water, and he’s a good surfer. Maybe one of the best. An Endless Summer type. To be blunt about it, Mick knows the best spots for the waves on the Baja pennisula. That’s the good news. The bad news is that just about every body else has also made Mick’s revelation. Where the sand is the softest, and not too hot on a summer afternoon. And where the waves roll in just right. Size and texture is important; Mick understands this. He’s got a liter of Pacifico beer between his legs, and he’s looking out over a beach from a small cliff, about forty-five kilometers south of Tijuana.

"Can’t even get to K 38 anymore. See the signs? ‘No Surfers.’ It’s the gear heads who screwed it up; coming down here expecting something for nothing."

The road to Ensenada is more than a coastal highway now. It’s a Mexican toll-road, super-highway type of route. And the access road which isa two lane black top winding in and around, like serpent coiled around prey can take an extra twenty-five miles. Not an expedient route. Mick swigs at his beer, watching the receding tide and rolling breakers. People, predominately Anglo, are dotted along the coast line.

Mick has the golden blond hair of a California boy, and yes, he does live close to San Diego. But not too close. In fact, he lives back in a little town called Potrero, population 287, elevation 2,323. Potrero is close to the thriving metropolis of San Diego, but the little town is far removed from the big city. On a calm night, and most nights are calm, when a big, full moon rises up over the mountains, the coyotes howl in huge packs, yelping away in the middle of the night.

"Doing Lunch" with Mick is different from most civilized sandards. There’s a lack of an air of urgency, and quite a bit of calm associated with it down in Potrero. And the closest population center, the easiest place to go to get food, is across the border in Tecate, Mexico. Fish Tacos, or maybe Carne Asada. Something like that and a cold beer or two. Part of it is the difference in ambience. I pointed that out once, the difference in ambience.

"Ambience? Can you eat it? Does it taste good?" Mick asked.

No, you can’t eat it, and yes it does taste good. In fact, the lifestyle in Tecate helps add to this flavor. That’s the same feeling which gets carried over towards the ocean when I was traveling with Mick. It’s a good arrangement. The border people, on both sides, know that Mick is suspicious: long, surfer blond hair, clear blue eyes, usually with a cooler full of beer ("remember the limit: one six pack per adult"), a couple of surf boards in the back of an old truck, and maybe a pair ofteenage boys in the back of the truck, too.

Mick has a son, now living with Mick, and Jay is a different sort of bird. He’s a teenager with a camper shell full
of rock and roll posters, pictures of exotic cars, and beer women. Or women beer commercials. A normal, teenage male child. One of his friends from school is with him, too, and the friend has brought his beat up "boogie board" along for fun as well. Both the boys sport ankle length shorts which seems to be the fashion these days, along with matching shoes, and haircuts which Mick is forced to raze the boys about.

"You look like some tribe out of National Geographic, right off the television," he teases.